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Saturday, October 5, 2013

Royal Mansions Go Back to the Future

Praveen Maranat and his wife, the host of the Maranat Mana
 Till recently teetering on the verge of decay, they are now being revived by their owners. We are talking about the palatial kovilakams and manas of Kerala. These mansions, which once symbolised Kerala’s aristocratic tradition, are but leftovers of a regal past ever since the state seized property from the feudal lords during the land reforms of the 1960s — without compensation. Gradually, residences of erstwhile landlords and wealthy Brahmins, which epitomised traditional architecture with ornate wooden interiors, slipped into oblivion.

Though many of those imposing structures were demolished, a few defied the test of time. Now, they are becoming a boon to the inheritors who are turning them into homestays, courtesy ‘experience’ tourism — a new trend in north Kerala’s Malabar region.


The imposing Nilambur Puthiya Kovilakam in hilly Malappuram, residence of the local Samoothiri (Zamorin) rulers of Kozhikode, and Maranat Mana, a traditional Namboothiri Illam (mansion) of Pandikkad (around 90 km from Kozhikode), are among them.While the latter has been in business over the last two years, the Nilambur Kovilakam Heritage Homestay will become operational by August this year.

Tourists can experience and understand the rich tradition of the Brahmins and Kshatriyas. They can get a feel of the architecture using rosewood and teak, take part in customs and practices, watch traditional art forms and have rejuvenating ayurvedic oil baths.They will have to abjure smoking and alocohol, and eat only vegetarian, though.
“Guests have to adhere to the centuries-old customs and traditions we follow,” says Praveen Maranat, who runs the Maranat Mana Heritage Homestay. “Nothing is arranged specifically for them. If they come during Onam, they can join us in harvesting paddy and other rituals, or help in cooking. The atmosphere is very informal. They are served the same food, cooked that day. Nothing extra, not even chilled water.’’

However, not everyone is allowed to stay. “It may sound strange, but we have to ensure they understand our way of life. I insist every tour operator visit the place before sending guests,’’ says Praveen, who put the conditions on Mana’s website and brochure.

According to Praveen, this is the best way to maintain such buildings and preser ve religious customs.“My family has imposed on me certain dos and don’ts. As long as I don’t break any, they will cooperate with me,’’ Praveen says.
 
Guests stay in the refurbished three-storeyed Patthaayappura (out-house) of the 160-year-old house. The only place where guests are not allowed is the Ganapathy temple. It is a stopover for tourists from Wayanad, Bengaluru, Guruvayur and Gudalloor. Last season, Praveen had mostly European and American guests for 52 days, through various tour operators like Blue Yonder, Incent Tours, Le passage and Southern Journey. “As a beginner, tour operators feel it’s a big success,’’ he says.

Puthiya Kovilakam, more than 300 years old, is one of the finest examples of Kerala’s architecture.

It is based on nalukettu (four complexes around a rectangular courtyard) style. It’s a panthrandukettu structure with four nadumuttams (courtyards). Apart from 18 large rooms, there are two halls which can host 200 people.



C K Ravi Varma and wife Sreemathy Varma are the only inmates of this huge building. “We intend to preserve this traditional cultural monument,’’ says Ravi Varma. The maintenance is very costly and requires many servants. Besides, there is no point in renovating a building without inmates. We need only a small portion for ourselves.

So we thought of developing four rooms as homestay.” Queries are coming from across the globe. “Many foreigners have asked whether they can conduct Kerala-style marriages in the building. Now, we are thinking of renting it out for such purposes.

But guests will be restricted to 40,’’ he adds.

(The New Indian Express, Sunday Magazine)

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